Day Eighteen

We made it two weeks! We made it to California!
I am in Arcata (near Eureka) and my bike is being caressed by the loving hands of Life Cycle Bike Shop mechanics. The weather has been overcast and drizzly, but we've had some really beautiful rides. Oregon's coastal bike route is unbelievable. The state parks have neat little hiker-biker sites with free showers for four dollars a night. As we got closer to the California border we encountered other tourers with similar destinations, and now we're traveling with two solid guys from Minnesota.

The amount I predicted to spend on food has been doubled by my 100km/day appetite. We have been eating really well, compared to our friends who are having ramen and soup every night. Fresh vegetables, pasta, rice, local cheese and fruits, yogurt, peanut butter and CHOCOLATE... I am rarely full, but always satisfied. It's also satisfying to fall asleep with the sunset and stay asleep until sunrise. My body is a well-equipped, finely tuned machine (with funny tan lines).

The nature is wild. Everywhere new smells are whipping at my face as I tear along. Every sound is made weightier by the silence surrounding it. Every tree is taller and older than the last! I've seen bald eagles and sea stars and crabs and anemones and deer and elk and raccoons and there was a cougar in our campground at Harris Beach (but I didn't see it, luckily).

The rides have become increasingly difficult but we are increasingly stronger and now that we've hit the tough California hills, I don't even notice or care. Looking forward to Santa Cruz!

Day Seven (or Eight?)

We've arrived from accross the Colombia River in Astoria, Oregon. Halfway over the bridge I started whooping and pumping it hard because I just cycled through an entire state! Washington was beautiful but rough. It rained the first night and the next day, and for the days following, all of our clothes and gear were wet. Olympia National Park was hilly. We've passed through a dozen small towns, between diary farms, autoparts yards, coastal fisheries, mountains and forests. Small town USA is strange. I'm actually getting a good idea of what America is like from the side of the road...

Stuff That I Have Seen On America's Shoulders:

Beer Cans
Pom-Poms
Cigarette Packages
Dead Birds
Slugs
Bees
Redwood Bark
Cassette Tapes


It's amazing the songs that have been running through my head. It seems that I'm digging further back each day for tunes to hum as I push push glide along.

We've been encountering increasing numbers of fellow tourers (heading the opposite direction). They are all men, and mostly alone. I would be incredibly lonely and unwilling to press on at my daily 55k break-point if I were travelling by the onesy. Alex and I are getting on well. The only times we've gotten cantankerous have been grocery shopping while hungry, or if there's something wrong with the bikes. It helps to just laugh. Speaking of which, there is some universally applicable wisdom to be gained from a bike tour:

Hills always look steeper from far away.
If there are clouds out when you wake up, keep a raincoat handy.
Baked beans and graham crackers are the gods' gift to poor and hungry people.
Keep on living!


Now that we're in Oregon, we'll be heading down the coast for another ten days, and then we'll be in California! It's rainy right now but things are looking up; We're having a big meal at a restaurant tonight to celebrate our conquest of Washington, my legs don't ever get wobbly anymore, even after big hills and hiker-biker campsites are only $4 in this state! Hurrah!

I wouldn't relish doing a trip like this as a male... cor blimey my balls hurt!

Departure

Everything's packed and ready to go, including my bike which I had to disassemble to fit in the transport box. Tomorrow we'll be in Abbotsford, BC and headed towards Sumas, Washington. Hopefully I'll be able to update once in a while along the way, but if not, you can expect a reflective entry upon my return!
Have a good spring!

Notes:

There isn't much to do on an open road, and once the scenery loses its breathtaking novelty, it's easy to get bored. This is probably dangerous, since being bored means you are paying less attention to cars and all your valuable energy is being sucked out through the hole in the back of your head. I start writing songs, on leisurely rides where my diaphragm isn't heaving. Also, eating fun food helps (Road: frozen Clif Shot Bloks. Recovery: Banana and Beer)

A few things I enjoyed after forcing myself to pay attention, recently:

Buzzing powerlines hissing as the rain hits.

The cashier at 'Family Foods' in Bragg Creek only had one arm.

Dead Goldfinch on the shoulder.

Purple and blue horse jackets - for the equine elite in winter.

Camp Kitchen

Since it's important to minimize the  bulk and weight of everything in your panniers, you may find yourself buying a tiny version of all your camp equipment!

This is the stove we are taking  (without the cannister it collapses into a fist-sized stuff sack. Incredible! It reminds me of an insect.)

 Another cool lightweight thing is the ever-popular (especially with my gearhead backpacker friends) Orikaso foldable bowl/funnel/cutting board:

 

What to Take

Based on my camping experience and what I've gathered from tourers on the web and in my life, this is the master packing list I have compiled:

Clothes
T-shirts
Long sleeved shirt
Undershirts
Fleece sweater
Windbreaker/ rain coat
Padded biking shorts (see previous post)
Shorts
Long underwear/leggings
Rain pants
Wool socks, athletic socks
Gloves
Toque
Neck tube
Sunglasses
Bandana

Tools and Spare Parts
C-wrench
Spoke wrench
Scissors
Tape
Patch Kit
Multi-tool (With at least a Phillips, flathead and hex keys)
Tire Irons
Sewing Kit
Wet/Dry Lube
Air Pump
Inner tube
Tire
Brake pads
Spokes
Nuts & Bolts
Rope
Flashlight/headlamp

Camp Gear
Tent
Sleeping Bag
Sleeping Mat
Pillow (?)
Burner & Gas
Bowl
Cooking Pot
Sharp Knife
Fork & Spoon
Thermos
Water Bottles
Food Containers

Miscellaneous
Toothbrush & Paste
Toilet Paper
Notebook
Permanent Marker
Clothespins
Safety Pins
Z-Clip
Cell Phone
Vitamins
Lip Balm
Sunscreen
Insect Repellent
First Aid Kit
Ziplock Bags
Superglue
Emergency Snacks
Passport
Wallet
Hiking Boots
Bike Shoes
Batteries
Maps and Route Guides
Bike & Bag Lock
Camera (?)
Dish/Clothes/Body soap (all-in-one)
Moisturizer
Reflective Vest/ Straps
Book (?)


I've been working since April to hunt and gather these necessities. With only a week left, I'm still rounding up a few last things and trying to compact it all into my four panniers. That nagging "I've forgotten something!" feeling has been laid to rest... but if you see that something is missing please let me know!!

Packing is my favourite part of a trip. It's the culmination of months of preparing. If I was excited before, packing sends me into a fever pitch with anticipation!

Only seven days left! Another big ride tomorrow, and then a "dry" run with the camp setup over the weekend (we're hoping it rains so we'll be better prepared to pitch and strike a wet tent).

Some [(more) useful] advice

Padded shorts.

Some Advice

Don't let 'serious' cyclists discourage you from embarking on a long-distance tour, or any bicycling venture, for that matter. There is way too much intimidation and elitism in the cycling world. Such people have their heads up their asses: if you love bikes and biking, PROMOTE your love! Support the vélorution by being supportive of inexperienced bike folk! I cannot express how strongly I feel about this. DON'T GIVE YOUR MONEY TO RUDE MECHANICS. DON'T BE AFRAID TO ASK QUESTIONS. DON'T TOLERATE "YOU CAN'T DO IT" FROM ANYONE. At the same time, DON'T SHOW OFF and DO learn and improve.

Elitist cyclists are backwards and must be disposed of.

Training

Alex and I are taking long rides around Calgary's bike paths every other day. This Saturday we have our first full day 100k ride planned. On the 'off' days I do urban exploration, visiting friends, running errands (or rather, biking) and cruising by the river, clocking in about four solid hours of pedal pumping. After dark, I bike to the show or party du jour no matter where in the city it is. Before bed I have a stretching and weights routine for general strength and endurance. I'm considering becoming a jogger as well, because I find myself panting excessively on hills, but jogging is the worst. Everyone out running in the morning looks tortured, and those running at other times of the day evidently need a better hobby. Even after finishing top ten on the cross-country, sprint and hurdles teams year after year, I hate recreational running. It's painful, there is no ball or other players to work with and I can never go fast enough. Biking is probably the best way to train for a bike trip anyway.