Who is this man? Does he need a girlfriend?

This equation accounts for the linear resistence of wind, among other factors that play into how much work is required to ride a bike. So hot.

San Francisco (Day I-Don't-Remember-Or-Care)

We took the bus to San Jose, and from there the train to San Francisco. Now we're staying at a hostel and wandering around the city, drinking tea and buying books and drinking iced tea and reading books. It's a big THANK GOODNESS that we don't have our bikes in these steep hills (15% grade in places, easily) but already I want to get riding again. Still I'm lazily enjoying metropolitan life with the knowledge that I made it here on two legs (mine!) and five gears (my bike's!), with only three flats (my luck!) Yes!

Oh, and,
it wasn't hard. Really.

Day Thirty (?)

In Monterey. The farthest south we will set up the tent. Land-owners around here are chopping down their apple orchards to make way for the new GMO super-crop: strawberries. The anti-climatic 'final ride' from Santa Cruz was framed by strawberry fields in all directions. Of course I sang the song. In each field were twenty-odd Mexicans in brightly coloured clothes and hats, bent double over the ripened plants. The bumpy road was splattered with the sweet juices of exploded produce.

We're going for a short ride towards Big Sur (the most beautiful stretch of coast in California, we've heard). In two days, we'll box up our bikes and ship them home again while we while our time away idly in San Francisco's book shops. What a ride!

Day Twenty-Seven

In Santa Cruz at Alex's Gruncle's (Great Uncle) house. It is hot and cloudless and the house is full of books and animals. It's a little bit mad. I like it.

Three days ago I accidentally biked over 20 miles off course, putting my count for the day up past eighty. TOURING TIP #472: ALWAYS WATCH THE SIGNS!!!

That night the four of us slept under the stars in the Marin Headlands, right outside of San Francisco, and had a feast of tacos courtesy of two women the guys met earlier in a bar while waiting 2.5 hours for me to make my way back to the meeting place (Olema, Calif.). These women had ridden their horses into town for tequila and oysters, and they were VERY enthusiastic about our adventure. We received $20 for supper from one of them, because her son was "about your age and I'd like to think... well, don't feel icky about it, don't be freaked out or anything, just take it and think of me at exactly nine o'clock tonight we'll all think of each other..." (She was a bit drunk.)

Besides some sunburn and a much-needed 17 hours of sleep yesterday at Half-Moon Bay State Beach, my body continues to work like a precision machine. I am impressed with how much headwind, how many uphills and how little smooth ground for sleeping it can withstand. The experiment continues until June 23rd, with a week at the end for recovery and idleness in the City by The Bay!

Much love to everyone who is following my travels online. I think of you all on the long, flat stretches...I appreciate the encouragement and affection I've received from everyone.

Day Eighteen

We made it two weeks! We made it to California!
I am in Arcata (near Eureka) and my bike is being caressed by the loving hands of Life Cycle Bike Shop mechanics. The weather has been overcast and drizzly, but we've had some really beautiful rides. Oregon's coastal bike route is unbelievable. The state parks have neat little hiker-biker sites with free showers for four dollars a night. As we got closer to the California border we encountered other tourers with similar destinations, and now we're traveling with two solid guys from Minnesota.

The amount I predicted to spend on food has been doubled by my 100km/day appetite. We have been eating really well, compared to our friends who are having ramen and soup every night. Fresh vegetables, pasta, rice, local cheese and fruits, yogurt, peanut butter and CHOCOLATE... I am rarely full, but always satisfied. It's also satisfying to fall asleep with the sunset and stay asleep until sunrise. My body is a well-equipped, finely tuned machine (with funny tan lines).

The nature is wild. Everywhere new smells are whipping at my face as I tear along. Every sound is made weightier by the silence surrounding it. Every tree is taller and older than the last! I've seen bald eagles and sea stars and crabs and anemones and deer and elk and raccoons and there was a cougar in our campground at Harris Beach (but I didn't see it, luckily).

The rides have become increasingly difficult but we are increasingly stronger and now that we've hit the tough California hills, I don't even notice or care. Looking forward to Santa Cruz!

Day Seven (or Eight?)

We've arrived from accross the Colombia River in Astoria, Oregon. Halfway over the bridge I started whooping and pumping it hard because I just cycled through an entire state! Washington was beautiful but rough. It rained the first night and the next day, and for the days following, all of our clothes and gear were wet. Olympia National Park was hilly. We've passed through a dozen small towns, between diary farms, autoparts yards, coastal fisheries, mountains and forests. Small town USA is strange. I'm actually getting a good idea of what America is like from the side of the road...

Stuff That I Have Seen On America's Shoulders:

Beer Cans
Pom-Poms
Cigarette Packages
Dead Birds
Slugs
Bees
Redwood Bark
Cassette Tapes


It's amazing the songs that have been running through my head. It seems that I'm digging further back each day for tunes to hum as I push push glide along.

We've been encountering increasing numbers of fellow tourers (heading the opposite direction). They are all men, and mostly alone. I would be incredibly lonely and unwilling to press on at my daily 55k break-point if I were travelling by the onesy. Alex and I are getting on well. The only times we've gotten cantankerous have been grocery shopping while hungry, or if there's something wrong with the bikes. It helps to just laugh. Speaking of which, there is some universally applicable wisdom to be gained from a bike tour:

Hills always look steeper from far away.
If there are clouds out when you wake up, keep a raincoat handy.
Baked beans and graham crackers are the gods' gift to poor and hungry people.
Keep on living!


Now that we're in Oregon, we'll be heading down the coast for another ten days, and then we'll be in California! It's rainy right now but things are looking up; We're having a big meal at a restaurant tonight to celebrate our conquest of Washington, my legs don't ever get wobbly anymore, even after big hills and hiker-biker campsites are only $4 in this state! Hurrah!

I wouldn't relish doing a trip like this as a male... cor blimey my balls hurt!

Departure

Everything's packed and ready to go, including my bike which I had to disassemble to fit in the transport box. Tomorrow we'll be in Abbotsford, BC and headed towards Sumas, Washington. Hopefully I'll be able to update once in a while along the way, but if not, you can expect a reflective entry upon my return!
Have a good spring!

Notes:

There isn't much to do on an open road, and once the scenery loses its breathtaking novelty, it's easy to get bored. This is probably dangerous, since being bored means you are paying less attention to cars and all your valuable energy is being sucked out through the hole in the back of your head. I start writing songs, on leisurely rides where my diaphragm isn't heaving. Also, eating fun food helps (Road: frozen Clif Shot Bloks. Recovery: Banana and Beer)

A few things I enjoyed after forcing myself to pay attention, recently:

Buzzing powerlines hissing as the rain hits.

The cashier at 'Family Foods' in Bragg Creek only had one arm.

Dead Goldfinch on the shoulder.

Purple and blue horse jackets - for the equine elite in winter.

Camp Kitchen

Since it's important to minimize the  bulk and weight of everything in your panniers, you may find yourself buying a tiny version of all your camp equipment!

This is the stove we are taking  (without the cannister it collapses into a fist-sized stuff sack. Incredible! It reminds me of an insect.)

 Another cool lightweight thing is the ever-popular (especially with my gearhead backpacker friends) Orikaso foldable bowl/funnel/cutting board:

 

What to Take

Based on my camping experience and what I've gathered from tourers on the web and in my life, this is the master packing list I have compiled:

Clothes
T-shirts
Long sleeved shirt
Undershirts
Fleece sweater
Windbreaker/ rain coat
Padded biking shorts (see previous post)
Shorts
Long underwear/leggings
Rain pants
Wool socks, athletic socks
Gloves
Toque
Neck tube
Sunglasses
Bandana

Tools and Spare Parts
C-wrench
Spoke wrench
Scissors
Tape
Patch Kit
Multi-tool (With at least a Phillips, flathead and hex keys)
Tire Irons
Sewing Kit
Wet/Dry Lube
Air Pump
Inner tube
Tire
Brake pads
Spokes
Nuts & Bolts
Rope
Flashlight/headlamp

Camp Gear
Tent
Sleeping Bag
Sleeping Mat
Pillow (?)
Burner & Gas
Bowl
Cooking Pot
Sharp Knife
Fork & Spoon
Thermos
Water Bottles
Food Containers

Miscellaneous
Toothbrush & Paste
Toilet Paper
Notebook
Permanent Marker
Clothespins
Safety Pins
Z-Clip
Cell Phone
Vitamins
Lip Balm
Sunscreen
Insect Repellent
First Aid Kit
Ziplock Bags
Superglue
Emergency Snacks
Passport
Wallet
Hiking Boots
Bike Shoes
Batteries
Maps and Route Guides
Bike & Bag Lock
Camera (?)
Dish/Clothes/Body soap (all-in-one)
Moisturizer
Reflective Vest/ Straps
Book (?)


I've been working since April to hunt and gather these necessities. With only a week left, I'm still rounding up a few last things and trying to compact it all into my four panniers. That nagging "I've forgotten something!" feeling has been laid to rest... but if you see that something is missing please let me know!!

Packing is my favourite part of a trip. It's the culmination of months of preparing. If I was excited before, packing sends me into a fever pitch with anticipation!

Only seven days left! Another big ride tomorrow, and then a "dry" run with the camp setup over the weekend (we're hoping it rains so we'll be better prepared to pitch and strike a wet tent).

Some [(more) useful] advice

Padded shorts.

Some Advice

Don't let 'serious' cyclists discourage you from embarking on a long-distance tour, or any bicycling venture, for that matter. There is way too much intimidation and elitism in the cycling world. Such people have their heads up their asses: if you love bikes and biking, PROMOTE your love! Support the vélorution by being supportive of inexperienced bike folk! I cannot express how strongly I feel about this. DON'T GIVE YOUR MONEY TO RUDE MECHANICS. DON'T BE AFRAID TO ASK QUESTIONS. DON'T TOLERATE "YOU CAN'T DO IT" FROM ANYONE. At the same time, DON'T SHOW OFF and DO learn and improve.

Elitist cyclists are backwards and must be disposed of.

Training

Alex and I are taking long rides around Calgary's bike paths every other day. This Saturday we have our first full day 100k ride planned. On the 'off' days I do urban exploration, visiting friends, running errands (or rather, biking) and cruising by the river, clocking in about four solid hours of pedal pumping. After dark, I bike to the show or party du jour no matter where in the city it is. Before bed I have a stretching and weights routine for general strength and endurance. I'm considering becoming a jogger as well, because I find myself panting excessively on hills, but jogging is the worst. Everyone out running in the morning looks tortured, and those running at other times of the day evidently need a better hobby. Even after finishing top ten on the cross-country, sprint and hurdles teams year after year, I hate recreational running. It's painful, there is no ball or other players to work with and I can never go fast enough. Biking is probably the best way to train for a bike trip anyway.

Bikes

Just a few days ago the search for a well-fitting road/tour bike ended, to my great relief. I had found a pristine Cannondale R400 Triple for only $500 on craigslist. The woman selling it had used it recently in a triathalon. There was no mount on the front for a pannier rack, but I was reassured by three sources that there were solutions to this minor problem. I had also read a few rave reviews of the R400 from habitual tourers. As it has probably already become obvious to those of you sensitive to the use of the past perfect tense, the bike is actually unsuitable for my purposes. The only way to get panniers on this bike is to drill holes for the racks, which cannot be done with carbon! I admit to feeling rather silly for not exposing this detail before exchanging money. Luckily the seller will take it back, since I hardly rode it 10k.
Now I've decided to overhaul my dear old Apollo '76, since it is the most reliable bicycle I've encountered, it's made of ever-coveted steel and it fits me perfectly (paramount for a long tour). This will save me hundreds of dollars. Time to get cracking (chains)!

In Preparation

(Or, How I Learned to Stop Resisting and Listen to Greasy Men Tell Me What To Do)

With just three weeks until THUNDERBIRDS ARE GO (Date of departure: May 14 from Calgary, May 15 from Vancouver) the preparation for this exciting journey is daunting. My travel partner Alexander and I have a rough pre-trip schedule laid out, obviously involving a lot of biking and camping. We have a few things still to acquire, gear-wise, but the biggest task I am faced with is turning my body into a trail-ready weapon of mass transportation.

I have never done something like this before. Of course, my family went camping and skiing in the Rocky Mountains when I was younger, and I have been on at least three major international voyages, one with only a backpack and a rail pass, but all of these experiences have been postively cushy in comparison to one month of bicycling 80-100km daily and camping nightly in the wild. My eagerness is tempered with the rattlings of fear that are prompted by thoughts of injuries or breakdowns in near-isolation, at night, with wolves and truck drivers scheming against us. The best way, I have found, to banish these fears is to
1) Research touring like I'm writing a thesis,
2) Gather materials and make lists like a fussy mother, and
3) Work my body harder than I ever have.

In keeping with these three directives, I have found some fantastic websites and books (links below), created a master packing list and, just recently, begun a training routine. This will be the first major project I carry out on my own, according to a personal ambition, with no higher organizational help (except their Highnesses Mum and Dad) and no crippling compromises. Already, I have accomplished more than on other projects, in that this trip is guaranteed to happen! How thrilling it is!

USEFUL AND ENTERTAINING SITES:

Our Route Guide (I have pored over this for weeks. The detail is incredible!)
The Oregon Trail Guide
Touring Tips from a wise biker kook
The Velorution
Analytic Cycling